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Extending for more than 150 kilometres between the two seas which have modelled its morphology and history, the Salento has an enchanting and evocative coastline.
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Anyone who would like to do a round tour of the two seas, a little more than 200 kilometres, should leave from Casalabate, a beach not far from the Santa Maria di Cerrate Abbey in Squinzano, and follow the low and sandy coast south, through Torre Rinalda, Torre Chianca and Frigole, shaded by pinewoods, as far as San Cataldo, with the remains of the Messapian town «Lupiae» and of Adrian’s Roman port, and then continue along the panoramic state road 611 as far as the «Cesine», one of the most interesting and evocative marsh lands in Europe, protected by an international convention. A visit to the area, part of the Vernole district, is enriched by marshes, and bogs, and a volunteer guide is available from the WWF offering you the possibility to admire the various natural habitats, from dunes to salt marshes, from reeds to oak and pine woods, to woodland with myrtle, masitic tree and broom, a refuge for numerous animal and vegetable species and transit crossroads for some migratory birds.
From here, going towards Otranto, passing the bathing resorts of San Foca, Roca Vecchia, Torre dell’Orso and Sant’Andrea, places which are still intact and uncontaminated, protected by low pine woods which slope down to the sand dunes, and port of call for lovers of sailing and sea recreation.
Roca Vecchia is a Messapian centre built on a prehistoric settlement. Excavations have brought to light the huge stone blocks of the surrounding walls and a necropolis with numerous rectangular tombs sculpted in the rock and a funeral hoard from the 4th-3rd century BC, mostly vases, red figures and «trozzelle» Messapian vases.
The Alimini lakes announce your imminent arrival in Otranto. They are two mirrors of water of varying saltiness with freshwater streams which run parallel to the coast, noticeable for their swamp vegetation and thick reeds which are home to rare vegetable species, such as insect-eating grass, marsh orchids and Salentine heather. An oasis of fauna protection, the lakes are a destination for coots and herons.
Otranto is one of the most exciting sea resorts in the district. Its history of martyrdom to the wrath of the Saracens-who left a desert of tears and blood in their wake, and pearls of their civil, military and religious architecture suspended in a Levant atmosphere-is enough to make this an elite tourist resort throughout the year. From Palascia Point, the most eastern extremity of Italy, on a clear day you can sea the Albanian coast and mountains. Otranto is a Byzantine heart, a Saracen memory, the mosaic of life in its cathedral is the miraculous bestiary of a patient monk who, one by one, positioned the multicoloured tiles of life. To see this is to change forever.
The coastal road which wends its way towards Castro is one of the most alluring touristic routes in the region, with its ups and downs which sometimes reach heights of eighty metres above the sea, and its winding route, it seems to have been planned by nature to hold the interest of a traveller in search of new emotions. Softening the bitterness of the rock, constantly beaten by wind, the devoted olives cling to the hills and valleys seeming to almost lap the blue stretch of sea.
Here everything sucks you into a whirlwind of history, nature and legends: after Torre del Serpe, symbol of the Otrantian city and metaphorically bloodied by its bauxite deposits, Porto Badisco, miniature fjord and prehistoric sanctuary, immersed in oleanders and cactuses; sulphuric Santa Cesarea Terme, renowned for its water therapy for its four caves and health tourism. From the viewpoint there your gaze can wander as far as the diaphanous Leuca, in a richly painted mosaic of buildings in Moorish and Mediterranean style whose colours are diluted in the deep green of the woods and pines and in the typical colours of Mediterranean vegetation.
On the edge of this splendid terrace cliffs descend vertically to the sea and to the huge «Romanelli» and «Zinzulusa» caves, these take you back to darker times, magnificent in their natural habitat and for the scenery which they frame. Diving into this sea is a fantastic experience that tourists will savour and remember, for the crystal clearness of the sea and for this opportunity to enter prehistoric temples.
Dominating the scene is Castro, from the height of its old town and castle which counterpoise the port and make this one of the most fascinating coves in the region, deserving of its Blue Flag from the European Community for the cleanness of its sea. The sea is just as crystalline and inviting at Andrano, famous for its «Grotta Verde» (green cave) with its bulbous stalactites, and which also has the European Blue Flag, which extends as far as Tricase, with its port and evocative «Canale del Rio» which is full of fish, parallel to Marina Serra, where giants’ whims have created fantastic precipices which plunge into the sea. Not far from here is the centuries old oak «Vallonea» the oak of a thousand horsemen, an, amazing natural monument planted by Basilian monks in the thirteenth century and once used by local people for curing leather.
Further on are: the «Canale della Torre del Ricco» in Corsano, Novaglie’s clear blue promontory (Gagliano del Capo), another sea ravine, the «Canale del Ciolo» with homonymous prehistoric cave and panoramic bridge, and the Bocche di Terrarico caves in Gagliano del Capo, spectacular for their light and reflections.
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After Punta Ristola the scenery changes perceptibly. Low cliffs and stretches of sand interrupt the high precipices of before, red earth and vineyards come into view interspersed with sixteenth century towers and umbrella laden beaches, with hotels and hostels and tourist villages. Stories of Barbarian incursions give each place its name: Torre dell’Omo Morto (dead man’s tower) and Torre Marchiello (Castrignano del Capo), Torre Vado (Morciano di Leuca), Torre Pali (Salve), Torre Mozza and Torre San Giovanni (Ugento), Torre Suda (Racale), beach resorts and also centres of winter tourism, that have succeeded in linking their natural beauty with historical finds and local culture, making this part of the peninsular a formidable touristic enterprise that can supply interest and information in the area throughout the year.
Of particular interest for naturalists in this part of the coast are the Ugento inlets, these constitute another amazing nature reserve, a damp zone characterised by its marshland of rushes and reeds (which are used in one of Salento’s most typical handicrafts) and which is also a migratory passage for beautiful birds such as royal swans.
«Paiare» (stone huts) and dry stone walls punctuate the coast until the Ionian reveals, in all its beauty Gallipoli, the «beautiful» city («kalè polis» in Greek), seemingly an island, with its dazzling church domes. Justly famous Gallipoli is, with Lecce, Otranto and Leuca, one of the marvels of the Mediterranean and worth a prolonged visit.
The medieval town centre is full of narrow winding alleys which almost burst into the houses, bastions, castle and churches. There is a Greek fountain re-done in the Renaissance period and Baronial houses which offer a rare attraction and render a holiday spent in the warm embrace of this town’s hospitality more than usually instructive. Then there is the whiteness of the houses, a dazzling whiteness, against which the garden and balcony flowers and foliage stand out, as in a Lusitanian court, combining with the scents of the sea, its sun-cooked people and its stormy and salty winds.
Looking out to sea is the church if «Saint Francis of Assisi», with its «Malladrone», with its dreadful D’Annuzio-style beauty, and the «Purità» church of the port unloaders, almost wanting to remind us of the weak power of the quotidian when confronted with Creation’s marvels.
Continuing the tour we come to Lido Conchiglie (Shell Beach), a stretch of dunes, the spectacular Montagna Spaccata (split mountain), and then immediately the Nardò riviera: Santa Maria al Bagno, already famous for its thermal waters and for the Roman gate is also a merry beach resort, and Santa Caterina, protected by «Torre dell’Alto» which dominates from «dirupo della Dannata» (the crag of the damned woman) with the Capelvenere and Uluzzo caves. Whilst inviting and transparent these waters are also those of Uluzzo bay, with the added attraction of the prehistoric archives within the Uluzzo and Cavallo caves.
The Capitano swamps are worth an individual mention, karst wells and gorges where you can smell tamarisk, sage and prickly rushes; the intense colours of the resurgent sea water serve as a background to this Mediterranean flora, offering the ideal environment for many animal species.
As testimony to the times of incursions and alarms, once again the landscape is one of towers. From Torre Inserraglio, Torre Sant’Isidoro and Torre Squillace, still in the Nardò district, to the superb Torre Porto Cesareo and Torre Chianca (Porto Cesareo), the coast follows a knotty route, interrupted by small inlets with crystal clear waters.
Porto Cesareo, once a centre for Basilian monks, is today a sizeable tourist resort, with 17 kilometres of beaches offering all conveniences which look towards an archipelago of small islands, the most notable of which is the «Isola dei Conigli» or Rabbit Island.
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